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A taste of Portugal, (part 1)
Written by dvm Sunday, 27 June 2010 10:47
Terry Lyons (Uncle Lion Academy, Samcheondong; Walker for Esther, wine maven) is taking his holiday in Portugal this year. He is sending reports of his journey to friends and family via email, republished here with his permission.
Hola,
Portuguese for hello.
I thought that it would be best to write each week rather than wait until I´m back in Korea.
I took a connecting flight from Inchon. a two hour wait in Amsterdam. Not to bad. I arrived here at 10.00 local time. I had read about the taxi rip offs but as it was late I decided to take one. It cost 6.50 Euros. Not bad. Problem was, the driver had ´NO CHANGE´for a ten. I was a little ticked off. Got more ticked off as I wandered up and down looking for the hotel. People sent me both ways but not the right way. After about an hour I someone finally showed me the right road. Must say I was not impressed as I went up the stairs. The hotel was on the third floor of a five floor building. The owner, minus two bottom teeth, opened the door and peered at me . He reminded me of Ron Moody as Fagin in Oliver Twist. Turns out that he is very very nice. He wants me to have a good time in Lisbon and is hepful with directions. He gave me the name of coffee shop that he goes to. Said the owner wouldn´t overcharge me. My room has no TV and no radio. Can´t say it bothers me.
If you were to ask me what my lasting impression of Lisbon would be. I would have to say, red tile roofs, cobble stones and fat people.
Fat due to the diet. Breakfast for most people consists of coffee with sugar and a sweet cake , pie or tart. The restaurants are full at lunch time. Most meals come with fries!!!!!!
Dinner is from 8.00 on. Must admit to putting a few pounds already!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Men as well as women are carrying a good few pounds more than they should.
still, when you look at what they eat it´s no wonder.
First day , after my coffee, I just wandered down town. Found a restaurant with tables outside and some palm trees across the road Lunch was grilled sardines with a half bottle of Vino Verdhi. I spent a good hour and half just sitting outside under the canopy watching the people. I was surprised at the number of women, of all ages, who smoked. Saw some rolling their own.
ALL the streets all cobble stoned. The stones on the pavement range from about a thumb length square to big black ones that are about 200 mil square. It is quite amazing to think that these were all put down by people. Of course, knowing how much of the world the Portuguese ´visited´ Iºm sure that some of the people did not do the job voluntarily.
Dinner was grilled cod in tiny place that was perched half way up a very steep lane.
Washed down with a jug of cheap white wine. Very tasty.
Slept well.
Day two was also spent wandering. Went to the river,. Passed through a magnificent square. It reminded me of horse guards in London. It is very big and the buildings are painted yellow. It is quite striking to see the square and beyond it the river. I spent a few minutes just soaking up the view. Found, to my delight, a Vino Portugal, building. You can taste up to four wines a day fro free.There are about 40 wines from three regions of Portugal. It will take me 10 days to try them all. I have already tried eight!!! I chatted with the manager for some time and because of my interest in wine I can try six a day!!!
I walked quite a way along the river road. Headed back to the restaurant that I found before and had grilled cod with a half bottle of white. for lunch.
Wandered up and down the streets near the river. they are full of shops, tourists and Lisbonites. Supper was disappointing. the smell o f the grilled chicken was better than the taste. the only veggie was french fries. Yuk. The wine was also mediocre.
Day three I walked the six kilo meters to Belem. It was where Vasco de Gama, amongst others, set sail as it turned out, to India in 1492. I really liked the place. The restaurant tha I wanted to try was closed but I found another. There were only Portuguese inside. The owner went to a glass fronted cooler and grabbed the fish for me. I had grilled sea bass washed down with local beer. Um um good. I spent some time wandering through a flee market in the tree lined square. Sat a while and admired the Mosterio dos Jeronimos. It is quite a feat of architecture. Visited the maritime museum. Even though most of the museums are free on Sundays, it was almost empty.
Belem is a real tourist trap but I like it. Plan to go back again to try the local sausages.
Took a tram back to town. There are ten trams that are pre world war one and still running.
I like them but must admit that at 4.00PM in the afternoon the air conditioned modern tram is very welcome.
The fares for all trams and buses is 1.40 Euros. The average price for lunch is 6.00 euros and dinner has been about 15. ´Wine runs about 5~7 euros for a half bottle.
The temperature gets up to 27~29 . It is warm but not humid and I have a bit of a ´farmer´s tan from walking around.
Today I spent wandering around the part of town that I am staying in. Found a Funicular. Took it to a spot overlooking the town. Had a glass of wine and looked at the city below. Not bad.
Also found a small cafe for lunch. I had pork with potatoes, quaffed some beer, and shared a yell or two with the locals as we watched Portugal destroy North Korea in the world cup.
Wandered back downtown. I can´t quite get over the cobble stoned roads. I was thinking that it must be quite dangerous when it rains. Especially on some of the steep roads and lanes that I have encountered.
In the centre of town there is a square called Rossio. The cobblestones are layed out like waves. If you look at them long enough you can feel the earth moving´ It is a very large square with a large fountain in the middle.
Another thing that initially surprised me was, and I hope no one takes offence, the number of black people. After I thought about it it made sence. Portugal was a major colonizer in Africa, South America and the numerous Island going to India. Must say I like the diversity of cultures here. It shows in the food, dress and even housing.
I will be spending quite a lot of time in the Alfama area. There is a Roman ruin there and the Castle of St George.
So, there we are. I do like Lisbon and if things continue the way they are I will need to let my pants out!
Stay healthy and Ate Logo
Terry
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