Phew!!!! 40 degrees today. Even Lisboetas were trying to stay in the shade. Must say it was a tad warm. No humidity but very little breeze. When a breeze came through you could see people stop and savour the second!!!!

Went to the Castlo De San Jorge in the old Moorish part of Lisbon today. The area is called Alfama. It is the oldest part of Lisbon. Very narrow and very steep streets are the thing that you cannot fail to notice. Especially if you decide to walk UP to the castle and the Monastery.   This is the castle that the Moors built in the 9th century. It over looks Lisbon. Most of the photos of Lisbon will have this in them. It was impressive, but not as impressive as the castle in Sintra. I found both castles to be a bit frustrating in that there are lots of artifacts around with no labels in any language to tell you what they are. A massive stone wheel on a plinth but???   A series of walls and stairs that you can see but are railed off.???  Pieces of sculpture ???  Having said that,  Sintra is breathtaking so they are forgiven. In other places it is as though the powers that be are content to have the stones,  but don´t want to tell anyone what they are.

It was the same sense of frustration in the Lisbon military museum. Not a lot of  ´stuff´ and what there was was either only in Portuguese or nothing at all. The Napoleonic section was particularly poor as were the 9th to 14th centuries. I was quite disappointed in the museum.

I´m going back to Sintra tomorrow.

Went to Amoreiras,  Lisbon´s biggest shopping mall.  Two hundred and ten shops. It is located in a building that looks like a bad wedding cake. Lots of turrets and spindles and alcoves. It is a pale pink colour. Apart from the outside it could be any mall in anywhere. The walk to the mall was more interesting. I passed a massive aqueduct that was finished in 1834. It is quite something. Just past it was a church and a simply incredible tiny park.

The park was an oblong with dozens of trees around the perimeter. Trees also crisscrossed the park. There were benches around the inside perimeter. and at 9.00 am, no people. It was so refreshing that I spent a good hour there just wallowing  in the serenity and coolness before heading into the already very hot day.

As I walked to the mall a number of planes flew overhead. They were all heading towards the airport. They were so low I could almost see the pilots!!!! It was something that I saw when I was coming back from Madrid. The flight path to Lisbon airport takes you over many many many houses.  You are so low  is as though you could reach out and pluck a flower from the bushes. No wonder they are going to build another airport across the river. 

 

Some odds and ends.

Sun glasses are worn by a lot of people here. There are very distinctive styles. Some have straight arms that have a small reflective strip. The sun glints off the strip. These are a young persons style. Next we have black, almost aviator style glasses but with thick frames and wrap around arms. These are thirty something glasses. Next we have the sunglasses that must be worn on the top of the head. These are for the ultra cool people of any age. I'm not sure that they even have 'glass' in them!!!!  Last we have the 'sensible' glasses that the over 45's wear.

 

Internet places are for the most part small rooms with a maximum of ten computers. Some have as few as six. Some of the rooms have call boxes for overseas calls. Most people using the computers are either sending mail, checking flights etc. or chatting using headphone and the cameras. Unlike Korea I did not see anyone playing games.

 

Almost all of the city taxis are cream coloured Mercedes. No, not the sports sedan, but a Mercedes never the less. 

 

I could n't help but notice the amount of French Fries that are served with meals. I was a bit surprised. When I asked about that I found out the Portuguese have always eaten fried potatoes. It is just more cost effect these days to serve the pre cut ones. Shame.

 

Went back to the castle at Sintra today.  Even though I took the road more travelled this time there were n't many people walking up to the top. I could see more of the castle ahead and above me this time. Amazing.  I paused a number of times to imagine what it would have been like to attack this place.  Once at  the top and looking down from the walls, I tried to imagine the defenders waiting for the enemy.  It is very hard to describe the

feeling. This castle is 412 meters above sea level. I am still in awe of the people that built this thing.   I'm sure that you can find more information on the Net if you are interested.

I spent a few hours there just thinking and looking out over the walls towards Lisbon. 

On the way down a cyclist and then a runner passed me going up the hill. That was impressive.

More impressive was my retirement home!!!!!!!!!   It is on a bend in the road. The castle is behind and way above it. Trees on three sides . A  wrought iron gate in the middle of a chest high stone wall opens into a drive way. There are three iron lanterns on either side of the drive way. As you face the house you are actually looking at the side. You can see, well,  imagine a square, on either side of the square is a upright rectangle with a triangle shaped roof. Each of the rectangles has an oblong window and above it a smaller square window. The square has a double oblong window. To the right of the building is the

'front door'   It has a covered entrance and irregular shaped paving stones that lead to another gate in the wall. There is also a pond. It is for sale. I wrote down the phone number. I 'll let you know!!!!!!!!!!! 

I was going to have lunch in the square but I found a little patio cafe just out side of town.

 

I had Alentejano soup followed by Grilled cod, green beans and grilled potatoes. I sipped on the local white wine poured from an earthen ware jug.  Whilst eating and chatting with Carlos the 'head waiter'  I asked about the soup.

Recipe as follows. crush garlic and cilantro. Mix into a paste and put into bowl.  Drizzle a fair amount of olive oil over the mixture. Take a slice of thick bread and coat it with the mixture.   Poach an egg or two in a pot and when ready gently take the eggs out and put them on paper. Pour the boiling water from the  into the bowl arrange the eggs on top. Add some fresh cut cilantro and enjoy. The cod was delicious. Roasted garlic and sliced onion on top with raw garlic in the green beans. The small oval potatoes are boiled then put on to the charcoal grill. When done they are ' hit ' just hard enough to split the skin. A small piece of garlic is dropped in. Once again,  delicious.  Must say it was one of the more memorable eating experiences.

 

Whilst I sipped on coffee I was thinking about some of the other dishes that I tried.

Plates, and I do mean plates,  of snails usually washed down with beer.  Sardines charred on the grill and eaten standing at the counter with a glass or two of local wine.

Uruguay beef in a honey mustard sauce , sauteed potatoes and Brazilian green beans washed down with a 2005 Herdade de Figueirinha.    Um Um good.

Game sausage with roasted vegetables, and a mediocre red  that was forgettable

Spit roasted chicken, mounds of fries and a jug of beer.

Chorizo, tangy and really tangy cheese with a jug of Alentejo white wine.

Something a little different was the stingray in a leek puree with  small boiled potatoes washed down with a very nice 2006 Tapada de Coelcheiros.

A very nice slow cooked Moroccan lamb dish with beer. The smell of the turmeric was, well, wonderful and the dates were, well, wonderful.

Salted crusted Atlantic sea bass. You have to be VERY careful when taking the skin off. Otherwise , tooooooooo much salt.

Had a nice Italian meal of  prawns followed by lime ravioli washed down with a bottle of Pinot Grigio.

I also tried stuffed cuttlefish, Portuguese meatballs, various cheeses and meats including black pork.

It's no wonder that I put on a few grams!!!!!!!!!

 

As it was my last night night I took the tram to Belem to my favourite wine bar.

I sampled a grape called SIRIA. It was a 2005. Light but very nice.

Nelson then gave me a glass of 2005 Quinta de Valdoeiro from Bairada. This I liked and had three more generous glasses. As I was leaving next day Angelo and Nelson produced a home made apple strudel and poured me a glass of 2006 Grandjo late harvest Sauternes from Douro, on the house!!!    I appreciated that.

 

If anyone is going to Lisbon you MUST go to Enoteca de Belem, have a glass or two and say hello from me.

 

I took the tram back to Lisbon. It seemed fitting that it was one of the old wooden ones.

I decided to have one last ginjinha [ cherry brandy] Wandered down to my favourite one.

As I stood outside I saw that the top of the local church was lit from the two flood lights below. In the shadow  people were standing or sitting around the small square talking in myriad languages.  Carlos was in his usual spot singing Fado tunes. Fado is uniquely Portuguese. It's a little like country and western music. Love it or hate it. It is difficult to describe. It usually has a mournful quality to it. It is sung by single male or female performer accompanied by a guitar. I liked the little that I heard.

I finished my drink and walked up the steep lane towards my hotel.  Carlos's voice was getting fainter. I turned a corner and it was all quiet.

 

Adeus Lisbon.

 

To quote a certain Governor: I'll be back.

 

Terry