Written by dvm
Wednesday, 21 July 2010 08:20
Perhaps it is because I only had a few meetings there with fine people... perhaps it is because it's not far from my home and work... we all have our bias...
Perhaps it is because the proprietor is himself a serious connoisseur of coffee and tea... perhaps it is the cool decor...
Little India is a knick-knack shop as well as serving outstanding expresso, coffee and Chai tea...

Or perhaps it is just a fact: Little India is the finest coffee shop in the City of Jeonju.
Find out for yourself! -dvm
Show on Google Maps
.
Written by dvm
Tuesday, 20 July 2010 16:22

[sic --> Reprinted as discovered]
SHERIFF JOE IS AT IT AGAIN!
You all remember Sheriff Joe Arpaio of Arizona , who painted the jail cells pink and made the inmates wear pink prison garb. Well.........
SHERIFF JOE IS AT IT AGAIN!
Oh, there's MUCH more to know about Sheriff Joe!
Maricopa County was spending approx. $18 million dollars a year on stray animals, like cats and dogs. Sheriff Joe offered to take the department over, and the County Supervisors said okay.
The animal shelters are now all staffed and operated by prisoners. They feed and care for the strays. Every animal in his care is taken out and walked twice daily. He now has prisoners who are experts in animal nutrition and behavior. They give great classes for anyone who'd like to adopt an animal. He has literally taken stray dogs off the street, given them to the care of prisoners, and had them place in dog shows.
The best part? His budget for the entire department is now under $3 million. Teresa and I adopted a Weimaraner from a Maricopa County shelter two years ago. He was neutered, and current on all shots, in great health, and even had a microchip inserted the day we got him. Cost us $78.
The prisoners get the benefit of about $0.28 an hour for working, but most would work for free, just to be out of their cells for the day. Most of his budget is for utilities, building maintenance, etc. He pays the prisoners out of the fees collected for adopted animals.
I have long wondered when the rest of the country would take a look at the way he runs the jail system, and copy some of his ideas. He has a huge farm, donated to the county years ago, where inmates can work, and they grow most of their own fresh vegetables and food, doing all the work and harvesting by hand.
He has a pretty good sized hog farm, which provides meat, and fertilizer. It fertilizes the Christmas tree nursery, where prisoners work, and you can buy a living Christmas tree for $6 - $8 for the Holidays, and plant it later. We have six trees in our yard from the Prison.
Yup, he was reelected last year with 83% of the vote.
Now he's in trouble with the ACLU again. He painted all his buses and vehicles with a mural, that has a special hotline phone number painted on it, where you can call and report suspected illegal aliens. Immigrations and Customs Enforcement wasn't doing enough in his eyes, so he had 40 deputies trained specifically for enforcing immigration laws, started up his hotline, and bought 4 new buses just for hauling folks back to the border. He's kind of a 'Git-R Dun' kind of S heriff.
TO THOSE OF YOU NOT FAMILIAR WITH JOE ARPAIO
HE IS THE MARICOPA ARIZONA COUNTY SHERIFF
AND HE KEEPS GETTING ELECTED OVER AND OVER
THIS IS ONE OF THE REASONS WHY:
Sheriff Joe Arpaio (In Arizona ) who created the ' Tent City Jail':
He has jail meals down to 40 cents a serving and charges the inmates for them.
He stopped smoking and porno magazines in the jails. Took away their weights Cut off all but 'G' movies.
He started chain gangs so the inmates could do free work on county and city projects.
Then He Started Chain Gangs For Women So He Wouldn't Get
Sued For Discrimination.
He took away cable TV Until he found out there was A Federal Court Order that Required Cable TV For Jails So He Hooked Up The Cable TV Again. Only Let In The Disney Channel And The Weather Channel.
When asked why the weather channel He Replied, So They Will Know How Hot It's Gonna Be While They Are Working ON My Chain Gangs.
He Cut Off Coffee Since It Has Zero Nutritional Value.
When the inmates complained, he told them, 'This Isn't The Ritz/Carlton...... If You Don't Like It, Don't Come Back.'
More On The Arizona Sheriff:
With Temperatures Being Even Hotter Than Usual In Phoenix (116 Degrees Just Set A New Record), the Associated Press Reports:
About 2,000 Inmates Living In A Barbed-Wire-Surrounded Tent Encampment At The Maricopa County Jail Have Been Given Permission To Strip Down To Their Government-Issued
Pink Boxer Shorts.
On Wednesday, hundreds of men wearing boxers were either curled up on their bunk beds or chatted in the tents, which reached
138 Degrees Inside The Week Before.
Many Were Also Swathed In Wet, Pink Towels As Sweat Collected On Their Chests And Dripped Down To Their PINK SOCKS.
'It Feels Like We Are In A Furnace,' Said James Zanzot, An Inmate Who Has Lived In The TENTS for 1 year. 'It's Inhumane.'
Joe Arpaio, the tough-guy sheriff who created the tent city and long ago started making his prisoners wear pink, and eat bologna sandwiches, is not one bit sympathetic. He said Wednesday that he told all of the inmates: 'It's 120 Degrees In Iraq And Our Soldiers Are Living In Tents Too, And They Have To Wear Full Battle Gear,
But They Didn't Commit Any Crimes,So Shut Your Mouths!'
Way To Go, Sheriff!
Maybe if all prisons were like this one there would be a lot less crime and/or repeat offenders. Criminals should be punished for their crimes - not live in luxury until it's time for their parole, only to go out and commit another crime so they can get back in to live on taxpayers money and enjoy things taxpayers can't afford to have for themselves.
Written by dvm
Sunday, 11 July 2010 12:14
Terry Lyons (Uncle Lion Academy, Samcheondong; Walker for Esther, wine maven) is taking his holiday in Portugal this year. He is sending reports of his journey to friends and family via email, republished here with his permission.
July 9
Phew!!!! 40 degrees today. Even Lisboetas were trying to stay in the shade. Must say it was a tad warm. No humidity but very little breeze. When a breeze came through you could see people stop and savour the second!!!!
Went to the Castlo De San Jorge in the old Moorish part of Lisbon today. The area is called Alfama. It is the oldest part of Lisbon. Very narrow and very steep streets are the thing that you cannot fail to notice. Especially if you decide to walk UP to the castle and the Monastery. This is the castle that the Moors built in the 9th century. It over looks Lisbon. Most of the photos of Lisbon will have this in them. It was impressive, but not as impressive as the castle in Sintra. I found both castles to be a bit frustrating in that there are lots of artifacts around with no labels in any language to tell you what they are. A massive stone wheel on a plinth but??? A series of walls and stairs that you can see but are railed off.??? Pieces of sculpture ??? Having said that, Sintra is breathtaking so they are forgiven. In other places it is as though the powers that be are content to have the stones, but don´t want to tell anyone what they are.
It was the same sense of frustration in the Lisbon military museum. Not a lot of ´stuff´ and what there was was either only in Portuguese or nothing at all. The Napoleonic section was particularly poor as were the 9th to 14th centuries. I was quite disappointed in the museum.
I´m going back to Sintra tomorrow.
Went to Amoreiras, Lisbon´s biggest shopping mall. Two hundred and ten shops. It is located in a building that looks like a bad wedding cake. Lots of turrets and spindles and alcoves. It is a pale pink colour. Apart from the outside it could be any mall in anywhere. The walk to the mall was more interesting. I passed a massive aqueduct that was finished in 1834. It is quite something. Just past it was a church and a simply incredible tiny park.
The park was an oblong with dozens of trees around the perimeter. Trees also crisscrossed the park. There were benches around the inside perimeter. and at 9.00 am, no people. It was so refreshing that I spent a good hour there just wallowing in the serenity and coolness before heading into the already very hot day.
As I walked to the mall a number of planes flew overhead. They were all heading towards the airport. They were so low I could almost see the pilots!!!! It was something that I saw when I was coming back from Madrid. The flight path to Lisbon airport takes you over many many many houses. You are so low is as though you could reach out and pluck a flower from the bushes. No wonder they are going to build another airport across the river.
Some odds and ends.
Sun glasses are worn by a lot of people here. There are very distinctive styles. Some have straight arms that have a small reflective strip. The sun glints off the strip. These are a young persons style. Next we have black, almost aviator style glasses but with thick frames and wrap around arms. These are thirty something glasses. Next we have the sunglasses that must be worn on the top of the head. These are for the ultra cool people of any age. I'm not sure that they even have 'glass' in them!!!! Last we have the 'sensible' glasses that the over 45's wear.
Internet places are for the most part small rooms with a maximum of ten computers. Some have as few as six. Some of the rooms have call boxes for overseas calls. Most people using the computers are either sending mail, checking flights etc. or chatting using headphone and the cameras. Unlike Korea I did not see anyone playing games.
Almost all of the city taxis are cream coloured Mercedes. No, not the sports sedan, but a Mercedes never the less.
I could n't help but notice the amount of French Fries that are served with meals. I was a bit surprised. When I asked about that I found out the Portuguese have always eaten fried potatoes. It is just more cost effect these days to serve the pre cut ones. Shame.
Went back to the castle at Sintra today. Even though I took the road more travelled this time there were n't many people walking up to the top. I could see more of the castle ahead and above me this time. Amazing. I paused a number of times to imagine what it would have been like to attack this place. Once at the top and looking down from the walls, I tried to imagine the defenders waiting for the enemy. It is very hard to describe the
feeling. This castle is 412 meters above sea level. I am still in awe of the people that built this thing. I'm sure that you can find more information on the Net if you are interested.
I spent a few hours there just thinking and looking out over the walls towards Lisbon.
On the way down a cyclist and then a runner passed me going up the hill. That was impressive.
More impressive was my retirement home!!!!!!!!! It is on a bend in the road. The castle is behind and way above it. Trees on three sides . A wrought iron gate in the middle of a chest high stone wall opens into a drive way. There are three iron lanterns on either side of the drive way. As you face the house you are actually looking at the side. You can see, well, imagine a square, on either side of the square is a upright rectangle with a triangle shaped roof. Each of the rectangles has an oblong window and above it a smaller square window. The square has a double oblong window. To the right of the building is the
'front door' It has a covered entrance and irregular shaped paving stones that lead to another gate in the wall. There is also a pond. It is for sale. I wrote down the phone number. I 'll let you know!!!!!!!!!!!
I was going to have lunch in the square but I found a little patio cafe just out side of town.
I had Alentejano soup followed by Grilled cod, green beans and grilled potatoes. I sipped on the local white wine poured from an earthen ware jug. Whilst eating and chatting with Carlos the 'head waiter' I asked about the soup.
Recipe as follows. crush garlic and cilantro. Mix into a paste and put into bowl. Drizzle a fair amount of olive oil over the mixture. Take a slice of thick bread and coat it with the mixture. Poach an egg or two in a pot and when ready gently take the eggs out and put them on paper. Pour the boiling water from the into the bowl arrange the eggs on top. Add some fresh cut cilantro and enjoy. The cod was delicious. Roasted garlic and sliced onion on top with raw garlic in the green beans. The small oval potatoes are boiled then put on to the charcoal grill. When done they are ' hit ' just hard enough to split the skin. A small piece of garlic is dropped in. Once again, delicious. Must say it was one of the more memorable eating experiences.
Whilst I sipped on coffee I was thinking about some of the other dishes that I tried.
Plates, and I do mean plates, of snails usually washed down with beer. Sardines charred on the grill and eaten standing at the counter with a glass or two of local wine.
Uruguay beef in a honey mustard sauce , sauteed potatoes and Brazilian green beans washed down with a 2005 Herdade de Figueirinha. Um Um good.
Game sausage with roasted vegetables, and a mediocre red that was forgettable
Spit roasted chicken, mounds of fries and a jug of beer.
Chorizo, tangy and really tangy cheese with a jug of Alentejo white wine.
Something a little different was the stingray in a leek puree with small boiled potatoes washed down with a very nice 2006 Tapada de Coelcheiros.
A very nice slow cooked Moroccan lamb dish with beer. The smell of the turmeric was, well, wonderful and the dates were, well, wonderful.
Salted crusted Atlantic sea bass. You have to be VERY careful when taking the skin off. Otherwise , tooooooooo much salt.
Had a nice Italian meal of prawns followed by lime ravioli washed down with a bottle of Pinot Grigio.
I also tried stuffed cuttlefish, Portuguese meatballs, various cheeses and meats including black pork.
It's no wonder that I put on a few grams!!!!!!!!!
As it was my last night night I took the tram to Belem to my favourite wine bar.
I sampled a grape called SIRIA. It was a 2005. Light but very nice.
Nelson then gave me a glass of 2005 Quinta de Valdoeiro from Bairada. This I liked and had three more generous glasses. As I was leaving next day Angelo and Nelson produced a home made apple strudel and poured me a glass of 2006 Grandjo late harvest Sauternes from Douro, on the house!!! I appreciated that.
If anyone is going to Lisbon you MUST go to Enoteca de Belem, have a glass or two and say hello from me.
I took the tram back to Lisbon. It seemed fitting that it was one of the old wooden ones.
I decided to have one last ginjinha [ cherry brandy] Wandered down to my favourite one.
As I stood outside I saw that the top of the local church was lit from the two flood lights below. In the shadow people were standing or sitting around the small square talking in myriad languages. Carlos was in his usual spot singing Fado tunes. Fado is uniquely Portuguese. It's a little like country and western music. Love it or hate it. It is difficult to describe. It usually has a mournful quality to it. It is sung by single male or female performer accompanied by a guitar. I liked the little that I heard.
I finished my drink and walked up the steep lane towards my hotel. Carlos's voice was getting fainter. I turned a corner and it was all quiet.
Adeus Lisbon.
To quote a certain Governor: I'll be back.
Terry
_______________
Terry has returned to Jeonju safely, and a little heavier.^^
Written by dvm
Monday, 05 July 2010 00:40
Terry Lyons (Uncle Lion Academy, Samcheondong; Walker for Esther, wine maven) is taking his holiday in Portugal this year. He is sending reports of his journey to friends and family via email, republished here with his permission.
July 3
The name´s Bond. James Bond.
Well, not quite and the casino is not as glamorous as I remembered from the movie.
I spent most of the day in Estoril and Cascais. The Estoril Casino is where they shot part of the 007 movie Casino Royal. It has more of a Las Vegas style about it than I was expecting. I declined the offer of a very expensive ´shaken not stirred ´martini and headed down the road to Cascais.
Both towns are where Lisboetas come for sun, sand and sea with Cascais being the more popular of the two. There are three bays in Cascais with enough sand for all. I did wander down and dip my toes in the Atlantic. Cold but very refreshing.
I ambled along the two kilo meter path/ promenade that connects the two towns. Lots of tourists and lots of locals. Easy to spot the Brits. They are the pink burned ones. There are all colours of skin from just arrived snow white to light tan, mahogany and then the almost black true sun worshippers. I sat in a bar in the left hand bend of the curve. As the bay continued of to the right I had an unobstructed view of the beach and the ocean. I sat back with my beer and watched the parade.
Shirtless pot bellied, grey haired men in everything from knee length boxers to speedos strutting their stuff. George Hamilton wannabes strutting their stuff. Middle aged women with a tad more tire than is fashionable, strutting their stuff. Middle aged men trying to remember how to strut their stuff as they ogled the nubile young women strutting their stuff. And all the while, seagulls hovered looking for suitable targets.
It would have been worth paying for.
After watching enough hits and misses from the gulls it was time for lunch. I wandered around a very touristy down town. Found a restaurant in a small tree lined plaza. Ordered a bottle of Rupe a Sussi 2008 Montepulciano D´ubruzzio. Started with a very tasty brucchetta. Ordered a Porcine mushroom risotto and sat back in anticipation of a pleasant hour of wine and food. WRONG!!!!!!!!!!!! The risotto was not very good. In fact, I can and have made better ones. It was too salty, too much butter and olive oil and not enough cheese. Ah well, the wine was OK.
I wandered a little more after lunch but found every thing tooooooooooooo touristy. I know, I know, I´m a tourist but you know what I mean. Took the train back and as I looked out of the window I though I was back in Korea. Rows and rows of high rise apartment buidings. Walls of canary yellow and pale pink. It was not the colours that surprised me but the number of high rises. Not something you see a lot of in Lisbon but I guess needed in the suburbs.
Back in Lisbon I went for a meander around one of my favourite areas and found a small cafe for coffee. Decided to stay and have a sandwich and beer for supper. The sandwich was delicious. Cured pork on thin slices of tomato, all in a soft round bread roll.
I walked back to a ginjinha and stood outside with my plastic cup of cherry brandy. One of the locals nodded. To cut a long story short I shook hands with Angolans, Goans, Brazillians, Indians, Portuguese and a number of people whose nationality I never did get.
The common language was cherry brandy with a smattering of English, French, Spanish, Portuguese and some languages that I never did get. Suffice to say, it was a later than a usual night, and Friday started a tad later than a usual morning!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I did go to my favourite wine bar later Friday afternoon.
I had a very nice cheese plate with some Nisa and some Terrincho cheese. Pungent hard cheeses with with some flavour. I tried the following white wines.
2008 Muros Antigos made from the LOUREIRO grape. Light refreshing. Bit like sauvignon blanc.
Next was a 2006 Fiuza Premium. Blended from PERNOA PIRES and sauvignon blanc. it is from the Ribatejano region. The colour was amazing. Almost gold. Green tropical fruits. The vanilla gives it a creamy texture. Very nice.
Number three was a 2004 Pinto. A blend of Viognier and chardonnay. Pale gold colour. I didn´t like it at first but it grew on me and it was my first choice.
Last was a 2009 Guarda Dios from Tejo. This was a blend of Chardonnay, sauvignon, ALVARIANHO and ARINTO. More sauvignon than chardonnay. My least favourite.
I will be heading back there later on Saturday. There are some more whites that I would like to try.
Supper was a big bowl of vegetable soup, bread and a carafe of local white. Must say that I like the way that the vegetable soup is made here. It is thick and has a wonderful aroma. I´ll try to find out what herbs are in it and let you know.
Well, it´s time for lunch and yes, I have put on a few kilograms. Too much to try!!!!!!!!!!!!
Have a good weekend.
Terry
Written by dvm
Monday, 05 July 2010 00:40
Terry Lyons (Uncle Lion Academy, Samcheondong; Walker for Esther, wine maven) is taking his holiday in Portugal this year. He is sending reports of his journey to friends and family via email, republished here with his permission.
July 3
The name´s Bond. James Bond.
Well, not quite and the casino is not as glamorous as I remembered from the movie.
I spent most of the day in Estoril and Cascais. The Estoril Casino is where they shot part of the 007 movie Casino Royal. It has more of a Las Vegas style about it than I was expecting. I declined the offer of a very expensive ´shaken not stirred ´martini and headed down the road to Cascais.
Both towns are where Lisboetas come for sun, sand and sea with Cascais being the more popular of the two. There are three bays in Cascais with enough sand for all. I did wander down and dip my toes in the Atlantic. Cold but very refreshing.
I ambled along the two kilo meter path/ promenade that connects the two towns. Lots of tourists and lots of locals. Easy to spot the Brits. They are the pink burned ones. There are all colours of skin from just arrived snow white to light tan, mahogany and then the almost black true sun worshippers. I sat in a bar in the left hand bend of the curve. As the bay continued of to the right I had an unobstructed view of the beach and the ocean. I sat back with my beer and watched the parade.
Shirtless pot bellied, grey haired men in everything from knee length boxers to speedos strutting their stuff. George Hamilton wannabes strutting their stuff. Middle aged women with a tad more tire than is fashionable, strutting their stuff. Middle aged men trying to remember how to strut their stuff as they ogled the nubile young women strutting their stuff. And all the while, seagulls hovered looking for suitable targets.
It would have been worth paying for.
After watching enough hits and misses from the gulls it was time for lunch. I wandered around a very touristy down town. Found a restaurant in a small tree lined plaza. Ordered a bottle of Rupe a Sussi 2008 Montepulciano D´ubruzzio. Started with a very tasty brucchetta. Ordered a Porcine mushroom risotto and sat back in anticipation of a pleasant hour of wine and food. WRONG!!!!!!!!!!!! The risotto was not very good. In fact, I can and have made better ones. It was too salty, too much butter and olive oil and not enough cheese. Ah well, the wine was OK.
I wandered a little more after lunch but found every thing tooooooooooooo touristy. I know, I know, I´m a tourist but you know what I mean. Took the train back and as I looked out of the window I though I was back in Korea. Rows and rows of high rise apartment buidings. Walls of canary yellow and pale pink. It was not the colours that surprised me but the number of high rises. Not something you see a lot of in Lisbon but I guess needed in the suburbs.
Back in Lisbon I went for a meander around one of my favourite areas and found a small cafe for coffee. Decided to stay and have a sandwich and beer for supper. The sandwich was delicious. Cured pork on thin slices of tomato, all in a soft round bread roll.
I walked back to a ginjinha and stood outside with my plastic cup of cherry brandy. One of the locals nodded. To cut a long story short I shook hands with Angolans, Goans, Brazillians, Indians, Portuguese and a number of people whose nationality I never did get.
The common language was cherry brandy with a smattering of English, French, Spanish, Portuguese and some languages that I never did get. Suffice to say, it was a later than a usual night, and Friday started a tad later than a usual morning!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I did go to my favourite wine bar later Friday afternoon.
I had a very nice cheese plate with some Nisa and some Terrincho cheese. Pungent hard cheeses with with some flavour. I tried the following white wines.
2008 Muros Antigos made from the LOUREIRO grape. Light refreshing. Bit like sauvignon blanc.
Next was a 2006 Fiuza Premium. Blended from PERNOA PIRES and sauvignon blanc. it is from the Ribatejano region. The colour was amazing. Almost gold. Green tropical fruits. The vanilla gives it a creamy texture. Very nice.
Number three was a 2004 Pinto. A blend of Viognier and chardonnay. Pale gold colour. I didn´t like it at first but it grew on me and it was my first choice.
Last was a 2009 Guarda Dios from Tejo. This was a blend of Chardonnay, sauvignon, ALVARIANHO and ARINTO. More sauvignon than chardonnay. My least favourite.
I will be heading back there later on Saturday. There are some more whites that I would like to try.
Supper was a big bowl of vegetable soup, bread and a carafe of local white. Must say that I like the way that the vegetable soup is made here. It is thick and has a wonderful aroma. I´ll try to find out what herbs are in it and let you know.
Well, it´s time for lunch and yes, I have put on a few kilograms. Too much to try!!!!!!!!!!!!
Have a good weekend.
Terry
Written by dvm
Monday, 05 July 2010 00:38
Terry Lyons (Uncle Lion Academy, Samcheondong; Walker for Esther, wine maven) is taking his holiday in Portugal this year. He is sending reports of his journey to friends and family via email, republished here with his permission.
July 1
Hello,
sometimes the road less travelled is less travelled for a reason. today I went to Sintra. It is about 30 ks outside of Lisbon. I won´t bore you with the history of the place. I´m sure that you can find all you need to know on the Internet.I decided to the Palace of Pena a miss. If you know anything about Ludwig of Bavaria you´ll understand why. I went to see the Castelo Mouros. The Moorish Castle.
The first thing I noticed was the difference in temperature between Sintra and Lisbon. Not hard to understand why the Monarchs lived here in the height of summer.
After walking to the center of town from the train station I saw two signs for the castle. One had a car on it. The other, a walking figure. I started to walk. It was so quiet. Just the occasional sound of birds. I walked and walked. Didn´t see anyone else. Stopped for a welcome drink of water at a working well. The path was getting steeper as I ´walked´ up into woods. My Korean friends will understand the irony here as I hiked up the mountain. The zigzag path through the woods was getting stepper and stepper. The only sounds were the slap of my sandles on the stones and the occassional bird. There were some palms at the bottom of the woods, sequoias, ginkos, thick ferns, yew trees and a host of trees that I did not recognize. As I went higher I was encountering boulders as big as buses. Just as well the path edged past them. It was however, peaceful and I was the only person on the less travelled path. Looking back down it was no wonder!!!!!!
I came to a very steep part of the path and as I looked up I could see stone walls. The walls were the foundation of a church that was built in 1143. It was built to commemorate the reconquest of the castle by King Alphonso Henriques. I continued up and soon came to the walls of the castle. I had climbed 410 meters!!!!!!!
The castle is unbelievable. The walls are like the Great Wall Of China. Looking almost like the backbone of a dragon, the walls cross the ridges of the mountain and seem to say ´if you want us, come on up and take us´ Built in the 9th century by the Moors it is a marvel of construction. I was there quite early and as the mist cleared you could see Lisbon in the distance. I still can´t believe that people not only climbed and built the place, but it was captured and then recaptured. It was truly amazing to walk the walls and then to stand on the highest battlement of the Castle Keep looking down at the world below. Amazing!!!!!!!!!
I spent about an hour poking around. Up one wall, around the royal tower and into the remains of the Knights quarters. Back along the wall. Once in a while with the green flag with Arabic characters would flutter in the breeze. Must admit that looking at the flag and peering over the walls I was oblivious to the rest of the world.
Decided to take the road down. Even that is a series of sharp bends on a steep serpentine route. I passed a few people walking up. They looked all done in. Um, try the other path I thought. Once back in town I had a bowl of soup with Portuguese ham on a baguette washed down with a half bottle of local white wine. As I sat there looking out over the square I thought about those soldiers who had climbed, built, fought and died for the castle. Had to raise a glass.
Even now I still can´t quite believe what I saw. See if you can find it on the Internet. I think that you will be as amazed as I was
Wandered around the town and found the wine bar that I read about. Not a patch on the one in Belem but still not bad. Sampled two white ports. Chatted with the ´barkeep´. Had a glass of red and headed back to the train station. I saw some incredible flowers as I was walking along. They had long red stems and leaves that had a single red vein. The flower is almost in two parts. A green bulb at the end of a very thin stem joins a red Chinese lantern shaped flower that has four red petals. These surround a purple sheath that houses five smaller pink shoots.
I also saw a long thick shoot that has green leaves with black dots on them. The leaves are shaped like a slightly curved upside down hand and are purple at the tips.They cover a
small white flower that I was told is called Orchadia.
I sat on the train well contented with my day. Haven´t decide upon supper yet. I´l let you know.
Should tell you about yesterday as well. Had a later than usual start. It was around 9.30 when I finished coffee. Ambled down to the main square. Took a ferry across the river just to see the other side. Bit disappointed that the ferry was a totally covered thing. The other side was not great so I took the same ferry back again. Decided to go to Belem and have some wine. Got there at 3.30 and left at 9.30!!!
Sampled some good wines
A Dao Cabriz reserva 2006. this was a blend of Tourga Nacional, tinta roriz and alfrochairo.
I like this blend.
Next was a QdoE quinta do Encantro 2007. Really nice colour. It is from Bairrada and is made from the Bagra grape. This is the grape that is like Nebbiolo. I like this one a lot.
Angelo picked another tourga nacional from Alentejano. 2005 vintage. Dark red colour, red berries raspberry. bit of a barnyard aroma. will be even better in a few more years. I was getting hungry so I had herbed blood sausage with very thinly sliced apple with a glass of Quinta de Baixo 2004- Tasty.
Portugal were playing Spain so the crowd in the street outside were noisy but fun. I was sitting at a table sipping wine and they were quaffing beer. Good time.
I was still a bit peckish so I had a cheese plate with grapes and bread. The cheese was a little salty. My last glass of wine was a four grape blend. Aragones, trincaderia syrah and cabernet. Tasted a bit like Chateauneuf du Pape and was a little sweet after the baga.
They certainly serve a generous glass. If you are ever in Lisbon you MUST look them up.
I plan on going back two or three times more. Next time is definitely white and they have some lined up for me.
I´m getting hungry so that´s all for now.
Terry
Written by dvm
Monday, 05 July 2010 00:36
Terry Lyons (Uncle Lion Academy, Samcheondong; Walker for Esther, wine maven) is taking his holiday in Portugal this year. He is sending reports of his journey to friends and family via email, republished here with his permission.
June 29
Hola,
I am back in Lisbon after my weekend in Madrid.
I flew Easy Jet. Inexpensive. However, all ticket and passport verification is done by hand as you wait in the line to board. The seats do not tip back and there is very little leg room. But you can´t beat the price
Using the metro in Madrid is very very easy. All the lines are colour coded and numbered. The directions in the stations are very easy to understand. The ticket machines are touch screen with instructions in four languages. The line from the airport is the newest and the trains are the widest. Interesting side note. Lisbon does not have a metro line to the airport. The Madrid trains are like one long tube. You can walk and see down the full length not like the tube in London. I had to change lines three times. Each time I did, the track, and, the carriage became narrower . I found the hostel without too much trouble. Didn´t realize that it was a true hostel!!! Had to rent a towel and then buy some soap!
My friend was waiting. We spent the day walking, chatting ,drinking beer and sometimes eating. I learnt a great deal about the politics in Spain. Of course all from her perspective. It was very interesting to hear about education, corruption and the state of the country. I really enjoyed listening and comparing Spain and Korea.. I don´t know where we walked and some times I do n´t think Susana knew. Her son and her sister joined us later. By later I mean 10,00PM. That was when we were going to eat!!!!!!!!!!!!!! For those of you that know me I was heading into an uncharted time zone. Just as well her sister was not really feeling too well. We didn´t have to go far. After that we walked quite a bit to a coffee shop that her sister knew. By tyis time it was 1.00AM. I had been up since 5.30AM. Madrid is an hour ahead of Lisbon . I was beginning to feel a tad tired. They walked me back to the big square near my hotel. We arranged that I would call at 10.00AM, or they would call the hostel. Either way we would meet in a small plaza and go for breakfast.
The person at the hostel told me that there was no public phone. I asked if she could call my friend on one of the two phone at the desk I said that I would pay. Short answer. No. I went to a public call box. Out of order. I walked for a while and found two more phones. Spent four euros trying to make a call. Could n´t get through. Went to a hotel to ask them for help. No help and no phone in the lobby!! Long story short. I couldn't´t reach her. Even though I went back to the hostel every thirty minutes I was told they had not called. I waited for two hours in the plaza. By 12.30 it was obvious they were n´t coming. Don´t know what happened. I guess I may find out later.
I spent a very unhappy day. Don´t like Madrid very much. It is a big city without any charm. I know that a lot of people will disagree with me but..............
Not really having a plan or any idea where I was I wandered aimlessly through streets and plazas looking at the buildings, people, avoiding the traffic and not really liking the experience. Could n´t help but wish I was back in Lisbon. You know when you go somewhere and it feels good. You feel good. I did n´t.
Time has a way of dragging when you are not having a good time. It dragged. At seven I went to a restaurant near a market for supper. The waiter looked as though he did n´t care if I was there or not. And on top of that, the red wine was chilled!!!
I went to the covered market for a glass of wine.There were an awful lot of people in the market. I bought my wine and as I stood there I suddenly felt like an island in the middle of an ocean of people. Some would stand next to me for a bit then go away. There would be a space then more would arrive. Couples, three´s and groups of people ebbed and flowed around me. Must admit that I did feel quite lonely and feed up. Even the three glasses of wine didn´t help.
My flight was at 5.00PM today. I had time to look at the part of the city I was in again. Still don´t like it
Anyway, I am back in Lisbon and I feel a lot better. Even arriving at the airport and catching the bus to down town felt good. Went for a cherry brandy. Stood and looked around. All is well again.
I realize that my experience in Madrid was coloured by what happened on Sunday and maybe I am being unkind to the city. Be that as it may, I am glad to be back here.
Tomorrow I will take a look at some of the other places in Portugal that I would like to see.
Need to check out buses and trains.
I´m off for supper and a bottle of wine.
Until next time.
Terry
Written by dvm
Sunday, 27 June 2010 11:39
Terry Lyons (Uncle Lion Academy, Samcheondong; Walker for Esther, wine maven) is taking his holiday in Portugal this year. He is sending reports of his journey to friends and family via email, republished here with his permission.
June 26, 2010
I went to the wine bar in Belem. Got there at 3.00. I was impressed. They pour a VERY generous tasting. I tried four wines. the first was a Tintos Palmela 2003. The grape is CASTELAO. Not bad but nothing really special.
The next one was Quinta de Baixo 2004. The grape is BAGA. this is very much like a Nebbiolo. full bodied with the aromas that I associate with Nebbiolo. I like it a lot.
Number three was a Quina de Cortesia 2004 reserva. A blend of Tourga Nacional, Merlot and Tinta Roriz. Tinta Roriz in the north of Portugal, Argones in the South = Tempranillo in Spain . Very nice. Soft well balanced. Um good. The last was a selection made by the owner. It was a Douro Quinta da Revolta 2004 The grape is Tinta Francisca. Not a lot of vineyards grow this grape. It was different. Maybe better if I had had it before numbers two and three.
The wines cost 4 euros each. A really good deal. So much so , that truth be told, I did n´t really walk back to the hotel. It was more of a slight weave!!!
I went and sat by the river for a while. The moon was almost full. It looked quite spectacular against the indigo of the sky. The river was lapping against the steps and there were not many people about. Very quite and nice. Of course I was full too so maybe the mind was ´seeing ´something that the eyes were n´t!!!
I had planed on a slow day Friday. Just as well. I woke with just the faintest of headaches. After coffee I bought some cherries and headed out for an area called Estrela. It is in the West of Lisbon. The other areas from East to West are Parque das Nacoes, Castelo and Gracia, Alfama, Baxia and Rossio, Barrio Alto and Chiado, Marques de Pompal, Rato and Saldanah and then Belem.
Once you get to know the city it is not hard to navigate your way around. I have n´t managed to do that yet. I keep getting lost. In my defence I must say that I often head down roads, lanes and alleys that look interesting. I don´t always land up where I think I should. I have seen some sites that the usual ´Lonely Planet ´tourist would not see. Of course it is doubtful that they would want to!!!
Remember me telling you that some of the roads are so narrow pedestrians have to flatten them selves against the wall as the tram comes by. It´s true. I was wandering around in the area that the tram took me yesterday. You know how you think that you have seen something before. Well, I had, but from the safety of the tram..
I had been up this hill before on the first day but did not really have an idea of where it was in relation to everything else. Now I do.
Found a really beautiful park. Lots of banyan trees, willows, olive trees, palm trees and monkey puzzles. After the hike up the ´ mountain´ I sat on a bench listening to the ducks and munched on some cherries. It was very nice. I found the place that I wanted to see. It is named the Cemiterio dos Ingleses. Why did I want to see a cemetery´? Albert Finney in the movie Tom Jones. Not a great movie but a great book. Written by Henry Fielding who is buried in the English cemetery. I was amazed at the number of people from England Ireland and Scotland who are buried here. I had no idea that Lisbon was home to so many ex pats. the oldest grave was dated 1749. I was also surprised by a monument to Boer prisoners of war who had died in internment here in Lisbon.
One of the things that I like about Lisbon is the number of little squares that pop up when you least expect them. That is one of the good things about getting lost . Of course getting lost also has it´s down side. Away from the maddening crowds and picture postcard Lisbon is the other side that we don´t see unless we stumble upon it.
It is the area that houses the greater number of Asians , Africans and Brazilians. After 1974 they arrived in droves and settled in the ´Ghettos´ Shanty type houses, high unemployment, and as a stranger not a real good place to be. I stumbled into one of the areas and after a few sullen looks from some of the locals turned around and headed back down the hill. Guess I´ll stick to the grid covered by the map that I have. It´s a big enough area without having to intrude to where, through no fault of anyone, I am not wanted.
Headed back to a cafe that had a TV set up outside. Portugal played Brazil. The crowd was evenly split with a few neutrals like me. However, neutrality was easily discarded when a cup of beer arrived with the following condition. Brazil get the cheer and Ronaldo gets booed every time he touched the ball. Boo Boo Booooooooooo!!
I´m off to Madrid tomorrow morning to see a friend. The flight is cheaper than the train or bus. And where the train or bus take nine hours the flight is just short of an hour and a
half.
I´ll let you know how the beer is.
Terry
Written by dvm
Sunday, 27 June 2010 11:22
Terry Lyons (Uncle Lion Academy, Samcheondong; Walker for Esther, wine maven) is taking his holiday in Portugal this year. He is sending reports of his journey to friends and family via email, republished here with his permission.
June 24, 2010
Ho la,
Before going any further I need to correct something. People from Lisbon are not Lisbon's! They are called Lisbeth's.
At the risk of having both the Lisbon mafia and the Russian mob after me, I have noticed some similarity in speech between the two languages. OK, time to run and hide.
I have also noticed that, unlike Korea, most older women do not dye their hair. If they do it is a light auburn colour. All the men just let it turn grey. Must say that I have seen some very striking heads of hair. Now that you have stopped laughing I´m sure that you know what I mean.
There are four types of eating and drinking places here.
Pastels: yep, calorie hell. You see lots of people come in and stand at the counter to drink their black coffee and eat a sweet something or other. There is no alcohol served.
Small cafes: usually beer, sandwiches and some sweet pastries. You can also stand at the counter to eat and drink. some tables outside.
Restaurants. These are the fully functional restaurants where you can only sit down to eat
and drink. Lots of them have tables outside.
Last but not least are Gonking´s. They are small places where you get a shot of cherry brandy in either a plastic cup to go, or a glass to stand and sip. It costs 1 euro, and I must say that having tried two or three I am a fan. It is not the sweet stuff that grandma used to serve. This is the real thing. Plus you get a fermented sour cherry in the cup......
I went back to Belem. I like the place. Even with all the tourists it has a charm about it that I like. It is less crowded than other parts of Lisbon and it feels a good few degrees cooler. I went to a restaurant that was ´touted´in the book. Bit disappointing. Seems as though fame as changed the ´local ´restaurant into a money making venture. It was n´t that the food was bad it was just that it did n´t have the local feel that I was expecting.
I did however find a REALLY good wine bar. The selection is formidable but the prices are are not bad. It was n´t open for drinks, however I had a good chat with one of the owners about, um, three guesses!
I will be going back later this week.
Found a local restaurant, my local area, for supper. Had an excellent beef stew washed down with a red wine. There was a TV and I wanted to watch the Korea Nigeria game. There were quite a few locals and I was voted down. They bought me a jug of house wine as a consolation.
The washroom has a metal holder for cigarettes. I haven´t seen one of those for a few decades. It also seems that the locals keep their fish and meat in the owners fridge and pick them up on their way home. Have to like that.
I saw someone eating a plate full of shells. Asked what they were. He wrote the name down. I´ll try some tomorrow. The counter has stools around three sides. You have to stand on a rail that is about two feet high before you able to sit on the stool. All in all I like the place.
Today 23rd. I wandered about. Lisbon is built upon seven hills. I have climbed four of them. Some by choice others by accident. One of the accidents bought me to a short cut to my hotel. I liked that. It sometimes feels like I am in the Robert Frost poem. Surprising, and for the most part enjoyable, the things you find when you venture of the beaten path.
A nice little cafe for a sandwich and a beer that was half the cost at the bottom of the hill.
Went for my four tastings of wine at Vino Portugal. Must say that I am getting to know a few of the grapes quite well. Sat for a pleasant hour.
The shells were snails. I had a plate and a bottle of Vino Vherdi. I followed that with a huge fish steak. grouper I think, boiled potatoes and green beans. I liked it but felt the 26 euros a bit expensive. Think I´ll look for somewhere else tomorrow.
Thursday. Took at tram ride this morning. The journey lasted 45 minutes. The trams are made of polished wood inside. There are seats for about 25 people. The route covered a lot of the places that I want to see so it was a good way to find out where they were. Some of the roads are so steep it´s a wonder that the tram gets up them. More amazing is the thought of the labour that went into laying the tracks and hanging the wires. On some of the steeper climbs it sounds as though there is ´ booster rocket ´ because the tram speeds up!!! Some of the streets are so narrow that pedestrians have to flatten them selves against the wall as the tram goes past. If there is a delivery truck on the track the tram just waits until it moves. No one yells or gets upset. I know that the drivers, as in all cities, do the same route each day. However, here the tram routes are not very large and it allows the drivers to wave and talk to people that they know. Of course the drivers in the buses can´t do that, but it does give you a sense of, um, dare I say it, tramquility!!!
Still with traffic. Cars stop for you even if you are n´t quite at the crossing, and there is a surprising lack of noise, read horns honking. Drivers are polite and obey ALL signals. ( Korea it ain´t). Lisbon has a relaxed feel about it that I like.
I was having a mid morning cherry brandy when I heard the sound of a drum and cymbals. Across the road in the big square were a troupe from Macao. They were performing a dragon dance. Their costumes were brilliant yellow pants, white shirts and black shoes. Quite a contrast to the bright blue of the sky and the white and dark blue
cobblestones of the square. Must admit, at that moment I did wonder what you were doing!
As in all cities that have something for the tourists to see almost everything has a charge.
The costs run from 1 to 6 euros entry fees. Starts to add up if you want to see many of the sites. Lucky for me I don´t, and those that I do want to see are easy to get to on a Sunday. Sunday? All museums are free. Of course you have the crowds. But the places I want to visit I don´t think are high on most peoples list.
Lots of squares and parks here. The parks have lots of trees, flowers and benches. Very nice. It is quite relaxing to take a pew for a while and just watch the world amble by.
I did that this morning whilst munching on some cherries. One kilo cost 2 euros.
I am heading back to the wine bar in Belem this afternoon to sample some their wine. Not sure what I´ll do for supper. Zebra steak maybe!!!!!
I´ll let you know what I find.
Terry
Written by dvm
Sunday, 27 June 2010 10:47
Terry Lyons (Uncle Lion Academy, Samcheondong; Walker for Esther, wine maven) is taking his holiday in Portugal this year. He is sending reports of his journey to friends and family via email, republished here with his permission.
Hola,
Portuguese for hello.
I thought that it would be best to write each week rather than wait until I´m back in Korea.
I took a connecting flight from Inchon. a two hour wait in Amsterdam. Not to bad. I arrived here at 10.00 local time. I had read about the taxi rip offs but as it was late I decided to take one. It cost 6.50 Euros. Not bad. Problem was, the driver had ´NO CHANGE´for a ten. I was a little ticked off. Got more ticked off as I wandered up and down looking for the hotel. People sent me both ways but not the right way. After about an hour I someone finally showed me the right road. Must say I was not impressed as I went up the stairs. The hotel was on the third floor of a five floor building. The owner, minus two bottom teeth, opened the door and peered at me . He reminded me of Ron Moody as Fagin in Oliver Twist. Turns out that he is very very nice. He wants me to have a good time in Lisbon and is hepful with directions. He gave me the name of coffee shop that he goes to. Said the owner wouldn´t overcharge me. My room has no TV and no radio. Can´t say it bothers me.
If you were to ask me what my lasting impression of Lisbon would be. I would have to say, red tile roofs, cobble stones and fat people.
Fat due to the diet. Breakfast for most people consists of coffee with sugar and a sweet cake , pie or tart. The restaurants are full at lunch time. Most meals come with fries!!!!!!
Dinner is from 8.00 on. Must admit to putting a few pounds already!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Men as well as women are carrying a good few pounds more than they should.
still, when you look at what they eat it´s no wonder.
First day , after my coffee, I just wandered down town. Found a restaurant with tables outside and some palm trees across the road Lunch was grilled sardines with a half bottle of Vino Verdhi. I spent a good hour and half just sitting outside under the canopy watching the people. I was surprised at the number of women, of all ages, who smoked. Saw some rolling their own.
ALL the streets all cobble stoned. The stones on the pavement range from about a thumb length square to big black ones that are about 200 mil square. It is quite amazing to think that these were all put down by people. Of course, knowing how much of the world the Portuguese ´visited´ Iºm sure that some of the people did not do the job voluntarily.
Dinner was grilled cod in tiny place that was perched half way up a very steep lane.
Washed down with a jug of cheap white wine. Very tasty.
Slept well.
Day two was also spent wandering. Went to the river,. Passed through a magnificent square. It reminded me of horse guards in London. It is very big and the buildings are painted yellow. It is quite striking to see the square and beyond it the river. I spent a few minutes just soaking up the view. Found, to my delight, a Vino Portugal, building. You can taste up to four wines a day fro free.There are about 40 wines from three regions of Portugal. It will take me 10 days to try them all. I have already tried eight!!! I chatted with the manager for some time and because of my interest in wine I can try six a day!!!
I walked quite a way along the river road. Headed back to the restaurant that I found before and had grilled cod with a half bottle of white. for lunch.
Wandered up and down the streets near the river. they are full of shops, tourists and Lisbonites. Supper was disappointing. the smell o f the grilled chicken was better than the taste. the only veggie was french fries. Yuk. The wine was also mediocre.
Day three I walked the six kilo meters to Belem. It was where Vasco de Gama, amongst others, set sail as it turned out, to India in 1492. I really liked the place. The restaurant tha I wanted to try was closed but I found another. There were only Portuguese inside. The owner went to a glass fronted cooler and grabbed the fish for me. I had grilled sea bass washed down with local beer. Um um good. I spent some time wandering through a flee market in the tree lined square. Sat a while and admired the Mosterio dos Jeronimos. It is quite a feat of architecture. Visited the maritime museum. Even though most of the museums are free on Sundays, it was almost empty.
Belem is a real tourist trap but I like it. Plan to go back again to try the local sausages.
Took a tram back to town. There are ten trams that are pre world war one and still running.
I like them but must admit that at 4.00PM in the afternoon the air conditioned modern tram is very welcome.
The fares for all trams and buses is 1.40 Euros. The average price for lunch is 6.00 euros and dinner has been about 15. ´Wine runs about 5~7 euros for a half bottle.
The temperature gets up to 27~29 . It is warm but not humid and I have a bit of a ´farmer´s tan from walking around.
Today I spent wandering around the part of town that I am staying in. Found a Funicular. Took it to a spot overlooking the town. Had a glass of wine and looked at the city below. Not bad.
Also found a small cafe for lunch. I had pork with potatoes, quaffed some beer, and shared a yell or two with the locals as we watched Portugal destroy North Korea in the world cup.
Wandered back downtown. I can´t quite get over the cobble stoned roads. I was thinking that it must be quite dangerous when it rains. Especially on some of the steep roads and lanes that I have encountered.
In the centre of town there is a square called Rossio. The cobblestones are layed out like waves. If you look at them long enough you can feel the earth moving´ It is a very large square with a large fountain in the middle.
Another thing that initially surprised me was, and I hope no one takes offence, the number of black people. After I thought about it it made sence. Portugal was a major colonizer in Africa, South America and the numerous Island going to India. Must say I like the diversity of cultures here. It shows in the food, dress and even housing.
I will be spending quite a lot of time in the Alfama area. There is a Roman ruin there and the Castle of St George.
So, there we are. I do like Lisbon and if things continue the way they are I will need to let my pants out!
Stay healthy and Ate Logo
Terry
Written by dvm
Wednesday, 10 June 2009 10:49
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